Sew seamless rags? Sounds amazing, right? But the point is that sleeves and necklines require traditional stitching with thread and a needle. However, Italian knitting technology produces beautiful patterns that present fashion with basic function. The soft microfibers used in these fabrics require special threads and improved sewing technology for elasticity.
Seamless garments have transformed the overall production process around the world. This technology allows the direct production of finished products and reduces the traditional production process. This leads to production cost savings of up to 40 percent compared to conventional knitting. Seamless knits are tubular in shape, which are elastic threads laid, placed in the bands of the world and prepared in the compressed areas.
Circular knitting machines were mainly used by underwear manufacturers since the start of circular knitting technology in the early 19th century. But Italian manufacturers merged reciprocity technology for sock toes and heels with intarsia for swimwear, underwear and outerwear in the 1980s. The machine manufacturing company, Santoni in Brescia, is currently the market leader; although other companies like Sangiacomo, Italy and Merz, Germany are also famous players in similar knitting machine technologies.
In just three years, the production of an assortment of seamless underwear reached 9% of the total world production of this segment in 2001, compared to 2% reached in 1998, with an increase of 18% in 2003. In 2007 , the industrial underwear segment is expected to reach 35 percent, Santoni reports.
As part of education and training, the Santoni Group has conducted courses at the Machina Institute of Fashion and Design, based in Brescia. The courses focus on software-oriented designs and machine developments. Santoni’s training center has become a workplace for innovations and the development of prototypes, which are verified by consumers and stylists, and will be manufactured and distributed in the open market.
Santoni dabbled in making seamless pants and bras, however, the results were not as positive as the diameter of the machines only allows for small sizes. Although this resulted in a lot of interesting results such as ruffles, bangs and designs.
Because the main products like underwear, outerwear and swimwear are very elastic, fine to very fine microfiber fabrics, which must be very stretchy and soft.
All major sewing thread manufacturers have developed suitable products.
Alterfil has developed a 100% polyester “Alterfil T” textured yarn for needle and looper. The combination of Alterfil T and Alterfil B in the needle and looper is recommended.
The Coats introduced Eloflex Coats, produced from polybutylene terephthalate (PBT). It is designed for elastic knitted fabrics, exhibiting the best firmness and elasticity. This could be used for both the thread and the needle.
GOtermann in Germany introduced eye-catching stitching with a shiny metallic effect. Extensive testing has shown that using a 2 or 3 needle overlock stitch a mixture of the “Piuma” microfiber thread and the metallic threads, GOtermann W 331, gives an excellent result.
It is gentle on the skin without causing irritation. The 127 available Piuma colors and 12 W 331 colors (in some cases multicolored) produce a wide range of color permutations.
Amann, in Germany, has developed a new innovative elastic sewing thread, “saba FLEX”. It is made from 100% continuous PTT yarn, available in 2 variants, 80tex and 120tex for all kinds of elastic fabrics.
Reutex, Germany offers a new elastic microfiber needle and looper thread, “Softex 120”.
Welding, gluing and heat sealing are other options than the usual sewing method. However, these options have their restrictions on elasticity. Framis Italia, based in Italy, is known for its “NoSo” welding technology based on glue. It is the bonding of two fabrics together. The bonding tape is implemented with hot air welding. Framis recently launched the latest portable EI Nino machine for hot air welding.
The Swiss manufacturer Schips has introduced ultrasound machines. The first machine is HS C51 WHE-F8, which is used for hemming, the second is HS C52BCO, which continuously joins two fabrics with adhesive tape, and the third is HS C51 WFO which welds the bent elastic to release clothes.
Sewing machine makers weren’t overwhelmed by new technology, as expected. However, few machine manufacturers have taken initiatives to improve the technologies. The user-friendliness and flexibility initiatives are remarkable.
. Czech Republic-based AMF Reece launched a chain stitch buttonhole lingerie folding machine, 5-4000 LT, to improve the process of finishing flat seams and flat seams. The excess gasket is absorbed by the sensor control. The flat seam is cut and fully sewn, then the cut flat lock chain is thrown into the waster.
. The Italian sewing machine manufacturer CF presented Rimoldi, well known for its seamless sewing solutions. Its concept consists of seven ingenious machines. The product range includes, on the tightening machine Vega II with 1 or 2 needles, Fenix with 2 or 3 needles and its smaller imitation Mizar and Libra are particularly developed for lingerie. Over lock machine Lyra is a 1 and 2 needle a new inexpensive sewing machine. Gemini, a station with two independent opposing heads, which coordinate to perform parallel functions of binding, lace and elastic on both legs of briefs or panties.
. Yamato from Japan launched the VGS machine with higher transport, positive thread feed for the needles, and time change of looper movements. This can lead to an increase in the length of the threads in the seam, which gives high elasticity. When sewing a T-shirt, the UTL will automatically make the stitches denser at the end of the sewing process and lock the seam.
. OOrkopp from Germany and Shanggong from China introduced three new knitting machines, two high speed lockstitch (GC8900-1 / A / H and GC8900¬4-50) and high speed overlock machine SG700 / 704/714 / 716. The other has a degree of difference in feed with micro alteration depending on the type of fabric sewn
. Union Special, Germany, introduced many machines for seamless garments; of these, a single flat sewing machine with 4 needles feeds the arm thread with a top cover thread for layered stitching processes. The photocell controls the chain thread trimmer on the back of the presser foot.
. Pegasus, Japan introduced a new special machine for tying ribbon on seamless garments, W562-020Bx232 / FT141 / MD641 / Y. It is a 2 needle flatbed sewing machine. Its top cover thread has a fabric edger, with elastic lace dispenser, stepper motor dispenser, and automatic thread / tape cutter.
. Schips introduced a mix of two machines, HS C3G / B to attach bindings simultaneously from the right leg to the left leg.
Seamless products have a share in the fashion and functional clothing market, and they are not limited to the underwear segment alone. The new evolution is emerging in the assortments of outerwear products.
Source by Gaurav Doshi